Tag Archive: Stockholm


The rest of my travel blog from Sweden 06

Nov 9 to 14

My two and 3/4 days in NYC are spent planting the garden I tore up the week before, once again with the help of Julie Atlas Muz in the pouring down rain, thank god for rain gear, getting a hair cut, and having a great Italian meal with Dirty Martini, Kenny Scharf, Hattie Hathaway, Andy Reynolds, Tom Ackerman, Jo Boobs, and Davia. A wonderful spa experience on 34th Street with Little Brooklyn, a meeting at Cielo with Bruce, a fun afternoon at the loft where Kenny is staying while he is in NY and painting, Scott and Loren visit us and we have tea watch Kenny paint me pack and look at photos of Female Masking and an amazing photo of a rubber cat person, breakfast with Loren, another manicure, shopping at Agent Provocateur (where Scarlet Sinclair now works) with Scott, and I am off again to the airport and fly to Stockholm.

Sodra Teatren has purchased my ticket for me, and it feels kind of gammy to I pick the ticket up at the airport counter of Malaysia Air. I am very happy that I am flying a non-stop to Sweden, as it makes for a shorter trip. MH as they call Malaysia Air for short, not sure why, is very nice. The flight uniforms are super cute the Stewardesses have long dresses made of a batik and Stuarts jackets look like dinner jackets and as if they should be in a soul or R& B band from the 80′s the lapels are rather large and have gold pattern overlay on the green fabric. The pillows are super soft and of very high quality as are the blankets. The food is hit or miss. Dinner good, breakfast bad. I sleep most of the 7 + hours and we arrive.

It is late morning and getting the baggage and going through customs take very little time. The airport has expanded and I find it a comfortable space to be in, the scale, wood and granite, glass, Swedish Interior and architectural Design at its bests. Though if I were incapacitated, I would feel different as the gates are very far from the main arrival terminal. I get out and get some Kroner and change to call my Aunt to let her know that I have arrived, only thing is, is that I don’t seem capable of using the public telephone, yes I put in my coins, I get a message to dial the number and it never rings, after several attempts I give up and head out to find a taxi to head into town, not knowing that the club has sent a car to pick me up and miss the man with the sign sent there to collect me. It is very cool outside, winter had arrived already, I see tell tale signs that there has been snow in the last few days, but it has mostly melted. I hop in to a taxi and the very nice cabby let me use his mobile to call my Aunt, she is as excited as I am. Arlanda is just about a half hour away from Stockholm, after my arrival we have lunch and then I call Karin the artistic director for The Hootchy Kootchy Club to let her know that I am here and would love to see her later when she is free. I go for a walk and then take a nap. Brita (my Aunt) and I have dinner, a stew made of elk meat and it is quite good. After dinner I feel quite tired and decide that I will stay in, that is just when the phone rings and it is Karin, I change my mind and go out with she and her husband Marcus to Cafe Rishi to see his art installation and have a glass of wine. They pick me up in their car and we speak Swedish and to my amazement I can keep up with the conversation and understand most of what is being said. I marvel at this, as I so rarely have reason to speak Swedish.

The bar is a well-known old establishment as it has been around since the 30′s. Behind the bar itself there is an amazing plaster relief that lay over parts of the mirrors with faces and bodies of women. There are wine glass type racks hanging over the bar that also function as chandeliers. Quite clever and I can tell they are old fixtures. Marcus takes me on a tour of his installation, it is a collaboration he has done with another artist who is a woman. The installation starts and a tree and transforms into a cross, parts of it I quite like, but I am not sure if I understand the concept. Marcus gets us drinks, me white wine and Karin orange juice as she is driving and the police are quite strict. We try to find seating, as we are both tired, she has been at work then in rehearsal and working on producing her fist show the one that I will be part of the next evening. It is very loud and it makes it difficult to converse, there is so much that I want to talk to Karin about as she is a very interesting, intelligent and well spoken young lady. She and her husband Marcus are obviously quite in love and have been together for I believe they said 8 years. I ask how they met and they both blush it is sweet. We all decide it is time to head to our respective homes and get some sleep, but in the way home we need to run an errand and drop by a fried of Karin’s who lives quite close to the theater who is helping her with her costume I forgot her name (not big surprise as I am so rotten with names) She has a tiny little gem of an apartment filed with SHOES!!! Vintage 20′s to 60′s, platforms, sling backs, mules you name it, even Swedish Spring-a-lators!!!! I get caught up in the shoes while they speak of costuming for a while, when Marcus who is sitting in the car calls and is tired of sitting the cold car it is time to head out.

I sleep till 13:30 the next day and just have time to get up have tea before Karin comes a collects my bags to take to the theater. I leave for the theater a little after 2:30 to get set up and see the space. I take the subway which is so clean and quite it is unbelievable, I ponder why this is the only country where there are quiet and civilized and the environmental impact on us humans is minimal and our hearing is not compromised by loud screeching, on the whole Sweden is a very gentle to the human senses. In no time at all I am weaving through the quaint streets of Sodra (southern) Stockholm.

It is already getting dark that is the drag about this part of the world. Daylight is a rarity from late October to the end of January hence the high suicide rate and chronic levels of depression and over use of alcohol. I find my way up to the top of the hill where the theater sits. It has a beautiful view of the surrounding territory. Sodra Teatren has very rich and interesting history that dates back to 1850, you can read all about it on the theaters website. http://www.sodrateatern.com

I get into the venue and meet the theater liaison Ingmari who is lovely. She orders out for some tasty Indian Food and we proceed to unpack out costumes and go over the outline for the show that evening. I feel like I am in some weird dream state, also feeling thrilled to be part of this event and really enjoying meeting artistic people in Stockholm with whom I feel quite at ease with. The show is a tribute to Betty Page and Veronica and I will be doing a little vignette homage to Betty in our matching RED Vivienne Westwood SEX SHOEs!!!!

The show and evening is super fun and the audience is a delightful mix of gay, straight, old, young, hipster, ex patriots, rock-a-billy, mod, fussy queers, pretty dykes, circus freaks and what not. After the club is shut down we all go to Stockholm’s very trendy and exclusive”Spy Bar” which in my opinion is really rather dull, but despite that we do carry on till dawn when they toss us out. I sleep quite a bit on Sunday, Karin, Veronica, and Louis de Ville come to late afternoon tea and conversation which my Aunt delights in as she so enjoys the conversation as learning all about these women and there performances. She tells us about when she saw Josephine Baker perform in Gateborg. Later take and I my Aunt out to dinner for Chinese food for a belated Birthday dinner and hit the hay.

The next day I am up and out on errands before heading out to the airport to return to NYC to help prepare for the Memorial Party for Adam Goldstone on the 14th. The flight is uneventful but delayed. We are chasing the sun across the globe on the flight from Sweden to NYC.

Back in NYC to pouring down rain, drop by some stupid party at the Prada Store in Soho with Kenny, due to his celebrity status we must smile for the cameras when entering the party. I am asked for my name I say “The Swedish Housewife” they think I am being funny or snotty. We last a total of 5 minutes, then leave and have a yummy meal at Cafe Habanna and go to sleep.

When I get up I repack and send off costumes and my excess baggage via Fed Ex, back to Seattle, as I have way more to take home than I can get on the airplane. Not sure how that happened. All my chores done I head up to Pastise early and have a bite and a few glasses of Champagne. I usually don’t drink before 5 PM but I figure this evening is the equivalent of a wake and I am to get drunk. The man sitting next to me at the bar thinks I am a stewardess, I play up to his fantasy for as long as I can, but eventually tire of it. The party for Adam was lovely, sad and not really sure what to say about it. Dirty Martini, Julie Atlas Muz and Little Brooklyn joined me in a group fan dance to a piece of music off of Adam’s album Lower Eastside Stories – Mi Querida Loisaida (My Beloved Lower East Side).

When the party was over family and friends met up at the Manhattan Bridge at the location where Adam and his dear friend Gary had bungee jumped off the bridge a few years ago, just around the time I had met him. We released half his ashes off into the dark windy Manhattan Night, and tried to say good-bye. It was 5 AM and I went and had breakfast by myself at 7A, returned to Julie’s where I was now staying and got ready to go to the airport to fly to Seattle and go directly to band rehearsal for the show we had the next evening at Cafe Champagne. Back to the grind in Seattle and what a grind I have ahead of me until the end of the year!

My Adventures November 1st to 6th

November 9, 2006
Newark Airport on my way to Stockholm

It is Thursday I must be flying… well at least that is the pattern I have been pretty much following since I left Seattle on the morning of November 1st when I flew out to NYC to start this jet setting journey that I am mid way through. I arrived to NYC late night and had an early morning the following day where I met with Julie Atlas Muz who I had hired to assist me in ripping out the terrace garden I maintain at the now very posh address of #2 Fifth Avenue. Home of former NYC major Ed Kotch, Larry Kramer and back in the day my dear friend Tom Rubinitz. Julie and I had a great time discussing life and tearing the hell out of the hibiscus, mandervilla, dahlias, and million bell petunias that will soon be replaced with hundreds of tulip and daffodil bulbs for the spring that we will plant the following week. After we finish the jog I head back to Avenue A and shower change my clothes and head out with my baggage to the nail salon to have a mani pedi before flying out to London. The car arrives before my nails are dry and have to purchase a pair of flip flops to put on my feet so I don’t @#!*%! @ my toenails. There is a woman in the salon that seems to suffer from some colonialist attitude or is it imperialist? She insist on informing me that the car can be made to wait and will not get paid until I get in the car and that I should just sit down and let my nails completely dry. I find her and her nose pierced, yoga clad, fit body annoying, and choose to ignore her and her bossy attitude.

Successfully in the car with no damaged nails I am of to Newark. Contrary to other people I find Newark to be a great airport to fly in and out of. It is remarkably fast to get to and from and yes the taxi and car fair can be more but it is far more expedient and user friendly than JFK. Also the road to and from the airport is NOT under construction.

I get on the plane and pretty much fall asleep. When I do wake up I fond that the flight has been delayed by a few hours but I am not affected by that one way or the other. I am sitting next to a very young Pakistani boy who is a med student and has just done a rotation on Kentucky and Virginia. To my surprise he had a great time and was treated very well in those states by the locals and was quite enthusiastic about sates that often give me cause for concern.

We land at Gatwick and I see that there is quite a rigmarole to get ticket for the Gatwick Express Train Line upon lines… no one ever tells you that you can purchase a ticket on the train for no additional cost which is exactly what I would have done had I know about it. The train is clean and fast and has a beautiful view of the rolling sun bathed hills of England.

Victoria Station is a fun and bustling place, I notice the tell tail signs that it is Remembrance Day (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remembrance_Day),
The poppy pins on sale here there and every where. I am sad I managed to get out of the country without one. It is a lovely tradition that I think we should acquire in the states collecting funds for our forgotten soldiers. Lord knows we have plenty of our own disembodied young men and women who don’t get visits from family and friends and whom the government has abandoned.

I head out the main entrance door to get a black cabs I simply refuse to schlep my heavy piece of baggage up and down the halls and escalators of the London tube. My fare to Bethnal Green where I am staying costs me 17 pounds…. for an 18 minute car ride. The conversion math is disturbing DON’T do it! Just do as I did for the entirely of my 72 hour adventure in the Great B pretend that it is dollars or your head will hurt. I can cry later when I get my VISA bill.

London is a beautiful city actually I think all Europe cities are beautiful the scale, history, architecture, established parks and large old healthy trees lining the roads. The view over the Thames is charming the blend of the old and new with the soft early winter light makes me feel comfortable and at ease. I realize that I really miss Europe and that a part of my being needs to be nurtured by this environment having such a strong connection to this part of the world having been born in Sweden and traveled extensively all over Europe for the first 22 years of my life. It is hard to explain the what it is that I find so soothing but I have been in the states far to long since 82 and have traveled to South America and Southeast Asia the most since then. I thought that NYC was diverse, now I see that London has many more cultures intermingling and I find it fascinating.

I arrive at the home of Miss Fancy Chance aka Veronica and her legal squeeze Fred aka Fredrick – only to be spoken in our respective native tongue Swedish. Their home is charming and so befitting for the young Korean lass who portrays Alice in Wonderland, all that is missing is a white rabbit. Veronica whisks me off to the local Italian Caf for a meal and a full on sampler of the locals. I feel like I am on the set of the West Enders or what ever that show was called about a neighborhood in London.

Unfortunately we have a middle aged, badly tattooed, smoking, crabby cabby sitting right next to us, who only wants to speak of tattoos, guns, home violence, and how fucked up England is while continually blowing smoke in my face and all overt my breakfast, all I want to do is to catch up with Miss V about her London life, and the gig she has booked me in that evening at the latest best kept sensation in London “The Working Mans Club” Friday night event “The Magic Lantern”. Truth be told, I feel a little stretched want to take a nap and go shopping at all the Vivienne Westwood stores or at least look at them. 2/3 way through the meal Miss V asks me if I want to meet Shanti, my ex’s wife, that he himself has yet to tell me about. I say sure… why not. She is lovely and charming, but not very happy, out of respect for her will leave it at that.

Miss V and I head back to her place regroup and get on the tube to Oxford Circus down Regents Street and head on over to VW!!!!

I am jet lagged and overwhelmed there is so much to look at, the price tags ….intimidating, because deep down inside I really know that the price listed is in pounds not dollars…. heavy sigh. It really does not help that I fit perfectly into a VW UK 14. It is almost like I am her fit model and it makes me so happy and unhappy all at the same time. There are a pair of shoes I am hunting for, and they do not have them as yet, because the shipping is behind schedule. Buy the time I get to the second store that features the “Gold” label on Davy Street I just happen to be there for the DHL arrival of the “SEX SHOE” I am after, but it is reserved for someone else, but being the good sport that I am, I am happy to try them on just so I can decide if I really want to keep up the hunt, so I slip on the shoe… well I decide that I do. I pout and feel a little disappointed that the vibrant orange, red and green plaid Harris Tweed suite is just beyond the bend in the £ or $ range. I would have to buy them both, as one with out the other would just be SAD!

After wandering around in a haze I drop by Beyond Retro where Miss V works to say a quick “Hello” before I go back to her house it take a much-needed nap before this evenings show. Sleeping is good despite the the back round noise of fireworks and fire crackers for the Guy Fawkes Day (the man who inspired “V “ as in V is for Vendetta http://www.guy-fawkes.com/festivities) that continue for the entirety of my stay in London, that and the two black cats Leroy and Nefertiti who I was told were very shy do not suffer from shyness at all with me in fact they seem to have fun poking and prodding me while I am sleeping and I just want to keep sleeping, but alas it is 9:30 PM, I must put on my stage face and wigs and head out into the night. The Working Men’s Club is a very cute. You walk up a small set of stairs to a main room that has cabaret style seating circling a wooden dance floor in front of a decent sized stage that have stair off the center of it. The room is full of a mixed crowd and very very smoky. It is as smoky as the Halloween show at the Emerald Queen. I feel a little fuzzy and not because I am in a gorilla suit, it is the jet lag. All the cast is very friendly and excited to have an out of towner in the line up. I can’t remember all their names and I feel badly for it but I do remember Amber and Venus Envy. I had met Amber at EW 06 in Vegas, not that I remember much of those crazy action packed few days. The Girilla seems to go over well despite that the butt pasties I have added to the act refuse to stay on my ass, and I spend the rest of the night talking to Shanti and Miss V. I get to bed at 5 AM yes, lot’s of talking and get up around 11 and get to meet Fredrick and the three of us go to breakfast at Elliot’s on Bethnal Green Road. The breakfast is very yummy with very pretty bright yellow colored organic eggs and after that we head into town as I am having a 3 o’clock meeting with Immodestly Blaize and Andrew at the Covent Garden Hotel located across the street from Coco de Mer, a high end fancy panty and sex shop store, of a style that seems to be popping up all over the planet. They have a few exquisite corsets and lingerie items that I am teased by. I head back across the street to meet my High teas dates ( yes I am going to eat once again).

Immodesty is wearing a tweedy riding jacket and trousers tucked into her very hot VW black boots and a petite black sequin hat at a jaunty angle, and a shade lipstick I can’t put my finger on but I like it a lot. It’s a deep pinky orange red color and slightly matte. She is giving great afternoon glamour and Andrew is in a very nice suit. I am full of questions about the up coming show they are producing T.I.T.S
The Immodest Teases Show, a first ever international fundraiser for Exotic World, featuring Miss EW 2004 – Miss Dirty Martini and our current Queen Julie Atlas Muz, and Murry Hill. I feel it will be the Burlesque Event of 2006, and a very sad that I cannot be there to watch what will be a very exciting and beautiful show. The flyers and promotional material is beautiful. We gab about this and that, get to know a little more about each other share a bottle of wine with our nibbles and end with tea.

Andrew is off to the office and I am off to the Post Mistress a shoe store that allegedly has the “SEX SHOE” I am in hot pursuit of, and to meet Miss V and Fred. Immodesty joins me for a little while and then we part ways. I do some considerable damage to my VISA at the Post Mistress… The store is told to contact the bank for the authorization code it takes forever I feel like the bank card company is trying to parent me by double checking my name address and total of my purchase I swear it takes about 15 minutes to wrap up my transaction. When we leave I have three bags and with my encouragement Miss V has one of her own, we wander around the streets of London and drop into a tasty cheese shoe Neal’s Yard Dairy and but some excellent goat cheese and English Apples that the very cute older lady in a purple trench coat and big black framed glasses ensures me are tasty tart and crunchy. More wandering and we agree that we want to eat again and we decide on Southern Indian. The King Fish Curry is the winner as is the white wine that is as dangerously drinkable as the description in the menu intimated. After this we head back to the homestead, as I need a disco nap before I head out for my 2AM performance at Low Life over in Elephant Castle. This party is dedicated to Adam Goldstone and the reason I came to London, as I wanted to be part of the festivities.

Nap, I do not wake up until 11:30 and rush to get myself pulled together as I want to catch the tube before it closes at what I believe is 1 AM … well is was 12:15 that my station closed at so I start to walk back to the house to find out how I go about getting a black cab. Lot’s of people are out and the fire works and crackers are still in full force. I marvel how such a large city can have the tube close down so early.

A cab spots me and u turns to pick me up. Apparently the feeling about tubes is that you would not want to be on one late at night with gangs of young drunk people, bad enough you end up with them on a bus. Off to Elephant Castle we are and I arrive at a location under a bridge and it looks intriguing! There are people in and out of costume coming into the party. The security people are very nice and helpful and no one misses a chance to tease me about traveling with a suitcase to the party. They don’t know that I plan to prance around as a gorilla in about an hour and then do my Girlilla act. Several people are on E and seem quite happy that dancing is in full force. There are a few posters up with Adam’s face and In Absurdity and Fierceness 1996-2006 written across the bottom. I get a little teary eyed and that happens a few times between the 1 AM and 7:30 AM when I leave. I love being a gorilla hopping around petting people especially when they are high on E as I am sure it is even more bizarre of an experience.

Well, having gotten in at 7:30 AM I sleep till about 12:30 and head out for breakfast on my own and over to Harrod’s. I love Harrod’s it is such peculiar store almost bizarre. There is a soprano opera singer singing arias from Tosca and The Magic Flute on the side of the escalator on a balcony. I wander around and looking at stuff and then head down to the basement to look at the shrine to Princess Di and Doddy. Then it is down the street to Harvey Nichols the stomping of ground of Eddy and Patsy. IT is getting dark so I hop on bus and meet up again with Miss V to go have Chinese food for dinner. She has a performance with their band Bib later but I am bushed and must sleep.

I am up early and off to the airport back to NYC.

Stockholm 2005 December 20

I arrived to the airport over an hour before I needed to so I called Amelia and she came and picked me up, I took her to breakfast at 13 Coins. When I got back to the airport I had plenty of time to go through security where there were Christmas Carolers in period costuming singing “Jingle Bell Rock” an odd combination. I saw Mr. Nilsson! Yes indeed, there he was going through security! Pippi Longstocking’s little side kick -a monkey- well this Mr. Nilsson belonged to two cute queens who were headed to Denver, if I remember correctly with their 8 month old monkey for the holidays. As I came down the escalator to get on the train to the S Gate my eyes were treated to a vision of six lovely Korean stewardi for Asiana Airlines in their very chic topeish uniforms. Their hats had a detail on the back that made me think of a temple. They were darling and very modest about my compliments.

I get on plane after doing last minute e-mail, as I know that Internet access will be a challenge once I get to Stockholm. Board the flight sit next to a young lady who is flying home to Ghana for a month on school break from Reed where she is studying Bioengineering. I watch, A Good Woman, Little Manhattan (too cute), The Boston Strangler, and Four Brothers 1 and a half times to get my Marky Mark fix. Slept maybe an hour, and land in Amsterdam at 7:45 AM where the sun has not risen as yet, it finally did at 8:45 AM. I go to the transfer counter where my eyes are treated to a sea of Nordic blue and Navy. I find it comforting that their uniforms blend in perfectly with the early morning sky that frames them from behind through the glass. Are the Europeans always so smart to play off nature in this way? Is that why I find there design palette so pleasing and comforting? There are priests who are either Greek Orthodox or Russian Orthodox in their black floor length gowns and round little hats. Long white beards and hair in a chignon no less.

Walk to the other end of airport to board the flight to Stockholm. Feeling weary as I sip my tea and drink a yogurt. There is a man waiting for the same flight who is in a complete sweat, dose he have a fever? Is he in withdrawal? Is he just an unfortunate sweaty guy? I decided I do not want to stand near him and hope he is not going to be in the seat next to me on the flight, as I really do not want to get ill. I have been fighting a damn cold for days and am pickled with the concoction I have been downing for the last four days- Airborne, Elderberry, and Astragals every three hours, with lots and lots of water.

I fake sleep for the hour and 50 minute flight to Sweden. There is a break in the cloud coverage and it is beautiful to see the flat land with the slight gentle bumps here and there with farms scattered here and there with very slight snow coverage. It is so pretty as you look at the landscape you can see how the glaciers dragged there way down this land leaving trenches, and rock out croppings. It is a very harsh but beautiful landscape.

There is now a train that travel into Stockholm which lets me know that it has been at least 8 years since I was here last- as that is when the train was added- it takes 20 minutes and I am at the Centralstationen the central train station in town. I get off and walk down the walkway and in the distance see someone who is unmistakably my Aunt. I can tell from 20 feet way that she is my relation as we bear many similar physical traits.
The last time I was in Stockholm I had recently fallen very much in love with Tsilke and was having the hardest time coming out to my Aunt. She kept asking me during my stay if I was dating anyone and wasn’t I lonely for a companion? But her questions and reference to this always had a male gender attached to it and I kept wanting to try to tell her in a casual way that I had fallen in love with a woman, I found the whole situation so overwhelming I ended up never telling her. Hence she has never know about what ended up being a five year long relationship with many plot twists and turns- but that is another story in and of itself. Oh Well! I was a chicken and what I get for not being more open to my family is that they really don’t know me. That being said I have so many things to come out about to my family I don’t know where to start. Bottom line I have always felt that they don’t really want to know.

Stockholm is one of the prettiest cities. The architecture is beautiful and the colors of the buildings as so pleasing to the eye, soft yellow, burnt orange and the classic Swedish green.This time of year when the sun is going down at 3:15 the houses have a warm glow to them and appear as gingerbread houses with the Jul lights a glow.

Powered by WordPress | Theme: Motion by 85ideas.